Saturday, 21 November 2009

Smog, Monkeys & Temples - Welcome to Kathmandu

Well, shall we begin with a little history on Nepal before moving to the glorious sights of Kathmandu, the ole' fabled city...

Nepal is a land-locked country bordering India on three sides and bordering China (and Tibet) across the Himalaya Mountains on its northern edge. Recently emerging from a decade long civil war between government forces and Maoist insurgents, Nepal hangs in the balance of a new and fragile political identity. We did see the Maoist becoming more active while we were there. The Maoist were blockading key institutions like the airport or government buildings in Kathmandu. The streets were filled with Nepali gov. troops to deter the Maoists.Though Nepal has ended a 240-year old monarchy by declaring itself a Republic, peace is difficult to achieve as fighting continues within and between ethnic militant groups. Despite immense natural resources and an economy largely based on agriculture, tourism and textiles, Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world, ranked 145 out of 179 countries, according to the Human Development Index (HDI)-( in between Kenya and Sudan).

Nepal’s 29.5 million people find themselves divided in vast and varied ways. There are multiple dialects and languages spoken by several people groups throughout the country, and Nepali is only spoken by roughly half of the population. Nepal is a predominately Hindu society, and much social stratification is employed by the caste system, resulting in a culture of discrimination both towards Dalits (untouchables) and women (more on this in next blog entry). Until May 2006 Nepal had officially been a Hindu state but in that month was declared a secular state. Around 80% of the population are Hindu, with around 10% being Buddhist, around 4% Muslim and the rest a variety of other religions, including as many as 800,000 Christians.

Nepal’s hills and plains (Terai) make up approximately 85% of its geography and give way to the magnificence of the Himalayas, covering the remaining 15% of the country, and crowned by Mount Everest. It is especially within these remote hill and mountain areas where one’s life is defined by hardship and few opportunities. We saw this grinding poverty and hardship with our own eyes in Kathmandu and the remote villages.

We saw many things in the first few days in the city before heading to the remote villages of Nepal. Smog did abound. On most occasions we had to walk the streets with bandanas over our mouths because of the pollution. Most people wear masks to help with their breathing here. Yet we did find those glimpses of hope and beauty through the smog and diesel fumes. Here are a few of the realities of Kathmandu...

This sign is more significant than most people could imagine...only 7% of Kathmandu's water is treated, the rest is pumped into the river



The River


The Central Market


Market Masks


Overlooking into the Market


Dal Bat (the Nepali national food)-Comprised of rice and lentils and sides of spicy sauces and curry-had this more than we can count-we loved it after having it in the first week we were in Nepal and then by the second and third were sick of it for every meal of breakfast, lunch and dinner!!


Temples of Kathmandu






The World's Largest Sand Art Mural (in the only mall of Nepal)


Constant Traffic



Street view


Monkeys in the middle of the city, with just a tree and trash, they too suffer from poverty and the smog


Buddhists prayer flags


More Temples






Power issues abound as you can imagine...




And More Temples




Thursday, 15 October 2009

Notes from Nepal

Dear all,

This morning we awoke to a thousand sounds of the city. Ringing bells, carpenters hammering away, people talking, others chanting. Its really warm and a haze of mist and city grit hangs over Kathmandu, so much so that we could only see the Himalayas early this morning, when the air was crisp and cooler. Yesterday, we took a taxi from the airport to our guest house and got a sneak peek of city life - people driving like maniacs on bicycles, motorcycles, small buses and 3-wheeled cars. We have been told that, in Kathmandu, people don't drive on the left or the right-hand side of the road, but the side that is easiest. This translates into what looks like controlled chaos, a destructive choreography or pedestrian near-misses, kooky automobile horns, and seatbelt-less drivers of all things petrol powered. Its absolutely terrifying to cross the road, but you soon realize that people make allowances for you and slow down, swerve in front of another car or stop altogether (which is less likely).

On our way back from the markets this morning we passed by a gentleman who could only see out of his left eye, as the entire right side of his face was swollen with various tumours that hung like large individual potatoes, the color of flesh from his head. They looked incredibly heavy, and there is no doubt he would be considered cursed and outcast by those living here, yet, he walked with his head lifted high. We just weren't expecting to see this, and I think it especially shocked us. We prayed silently for him, and wished we could speak the language so we could greet him and speak with him. Never in my whole life have I wanted to become a doctor, or surgeon so that I could relieve suffering by removing deforming tumors or mending cleft pallets and lips. We believe that prayers for healing are as good as any doctor's miracles, and sometimes what seems like a small thing, like prayer, actually brings about the most lasting and transformative change.

Thursday, 8 October 2009

Life so far....England & Nepal

We are long overdue for giving an update of what we have been up to since we finished our Master's program in Oxford. Amazingly, the day we turned in our dissertations we saw double rainbows outside our bedroom window. Neither of us have had that happen after turing in school work! After our program we took a trip to Scotland (see previous entry on blog) before moving down to London from Oxford.

Currently, Ian is working for Tearfund in London, which is an international development organization (NGO) that specializes in disaster management and poverty eradication. Ian is working in the international human resources department for this organization. Monica, has been tirelessly applying for development jobs internationally. It has been a joy to be living abroad, yet it does bring its own challenges. We have been living in temporary accommodation from month to month, which is a stretch for any person trying to plan ahead. Ahh, life in faith.

We are also preparing to go abroad to Nepal from October 13th until November 4th, where we will both be working with a UK organization (FEBA) that helps set up community development and radio projects in Nepal. Our tasks will be to consult with FEBA and the Nepali people in order to better meet their current needs (eg. health, education, agriculture, etc.) in their communities. We will be backpacking from village to village talking with Nepalis about their most pressing needs in life and recording their comments to be put in a report for FEBA and international donors. We are so grateful to have this opportunity as development consultants in tandem with one another. After we get back from Nepal there are many unknowns. No need to worry.... we do have more than a cardboard box to live in when we return! We actually have a small apartment in London. Come visit us before we are living in a mud hut somewhere else, of course mud huts are amazing too! Also we may have opportunities to continue work with Tearfund or possibly other NGOs, if we get any responses back from other development jobs we have applied for. We will keep you posted. Miss you all.

Double Rainbow


Video on our work in Nepal from FEBA

Monday, 5 October 2009

Weekend Away in Scotland

So after spending the last month of the summer doing our dissertations in order to finish our master's program, we decided to take a weekend away in Scotland. It was the breath of fresh air that we needed. Road trips with good friends are wonderful, especially when they end up in Edinburgh, Scotland. The beauty of Edinburgh...

























The Edinburgh Castle


Thursday, 17 September 2009

Munich...

This summer we attended the United Nations University Summer Academy in Munich, Germany for a week. The academy brought together experts, academics, and policy making bodies (UN, IPCC, SEI) from all over the world to collaborate on a policy paper. This involves close cooperation between experts from industrialised, emerging and developing countries. The Summer Academy provides impulses for vulnerability research. Its objective is to analyse the gaps that exist in this field in science, politics and working practice, and to develop potential solutions. There were some 20 young scientists from all over the world (including Ethiopia, South Africa, Cameroon, Japan, India, New Zealand and Indonesia) and six of our seven chairholders (MRF-UNU Chair on Social Vulnerability) considered the interaction of climate change and possible humanitarian crises. The concept of “tipping points”, which describes the juncture at which crises may be triggered, needs to be better understood and given greater consideration in climate research. So what are the world's greatest tipping points? (This was the question that we wrestled with the whole week). Greed, Power, Money was key in our groups discussion on tipping points.
It was a crazy experience. We were told to bring our current research from our studies with us to present to the group. Needless to say almost everyone had a PHD and above. We kept thinking they had mistaken us for someone else and we were crashing their party. Really, it was great fun. Sort of like an academic retreat. We got to stay and meet in a Bavarian Castle and village for a week. It was just on the outskirts of Munich. Also, we had a few days where we got to travel to the city center of Munich. We both loved Munich. It was such charming city. Here is a taste of our trip...

The Castle we had our academy in...


The sessions within the Castle...




Our Group tipping point discussion



Munich
(The dragon symbolizes the Plague)










The Munich Gardens (bigger than Hyde Park in London)




Yes, there is even surfer in the city gardens...


The Market






The Biergarten


Ian enjoying German cuisine
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